I Heart Betty
1965 Betty, the St. Paul resident of my dreams
To say that I admire Betty Crocker, or that I'm fond of her, does not begin to plumb the depth of my feelings. Offering the thought that I would gladly burn incense sticks and joss paper while prostrating myself in front of her portrait at General Mills headquarters (assuming that security guards would let me, which is unlikely) might be getting a little closer to the heart of the matter.
As I write these words, I realize it seems as if I think Betty Crocker is a real person.
Of course she’s real; what do you think I am, stupid? I know that Betty lives and breathes and cooks warm and tasty desserts somewhere, and now that I think of it, I even know where that place must be – St. Paul. How could she live anywhere else? I picture her house, a darling cottage on suitably adorably named St. Paul street. None of those big-city Minneapolis number-and-alphabet streets for Betty. No, she lives in a tree-shaded glen on Juno, say, or Juliet.
I imagine going to visit Betty. Of course I end up being late, because how can Juno follow right after Juliet? You can't have two J's in a row! Can’t they lay out the streets in any rational order in this god-damned city? Okay, calm down, breathe deeply and stop cursing, I tell myself. Betty is waiting, right behind that perfectly painted door with the two charming pots of traditional geraniums on either side.
She lets me in, pretending not to notice my sweaty and typically Minneapolis-frantic demeanor, because Betty is a Perfect Hostess. She leads me to the kitchen, which is appropriate but not over-the-top. No Aga for Betty, just a perfectly good Hotpoint, thank you very much. It might even be Harvest Gold, which, to Betty, still is a swell color, no matter what those hipsters in Uptown have to say about it.
Is Betty wearing her trademark red suit and pearls? Hmmm, I’m stumped there. It seems a bit formal for a casual afternoon entertaining a sweaty woman from Minneapolis; that suit is more like what she might wear when applying for loan at the bank or posing for a box of brownies. I hit upon the solution: Over the one outfit she seems to own, Betty wears an apron, something vintage-looking that she whipped up herself in the downstairs sewing nook. (I’ll bet Betty’s house has a lot of nooks, just saying.) As she pulls a pan from the oven, I notice that her oven mitts match her apron. Of course they do; duh, she’s Betty Crocker.
And then she places a dish of something warm and chocolaty in front of me, and offers me a glass of cold milk. Milk! I haven’t had milk in 25 years, but yes, Betty, I’d love some!
…. and, as I lift the glass to my lips, my reverie ends, and I’m back in Minneapolis, home of many orderly streets and very few Harvest Gold Hotpoints. And not, as I look in front of me, a warm, chocolaty dessert anywhere in sight.
Which causes me to wonder, honestly what is my deal? Why I am so taken with a woman who is (to some naysayers, I have to admit) an imaginary spokesperson? It’s not like I wish I could shake the hand of Uncle Ben or poke the avoirdupois of the Doughboy. My heart belongs to Betty, and I think I know why – because my mother loved her, too. My mom was a housewife in the 1950s, when it truly was a miracle to toss an egg into a bowl, add a mix, and whip it all up in the Sunbeam mixer for three to five minutes on medium speed. For my mother’s generation, packaged food was always better, and Betty Crocker was the symbol of the perfect housewife who knew how to please her family with reliable packaged goods.
As I look back on what must have been my mother’s own cooking history, I’ve realized something – our mother’s mothers were, most likely, terrible cooks. In my own poor mother’s case, her mother died when she was seven years old, so I can’t imagine that she had many well-cooked meals. And, oh yeah, the Depression, which hit when she was nine. So of course she loved Betty Crocker. Not only could she afford it, but the food tasted the same way every time, and no dim-witted big sister or dopey dad could mess it up.
I’ve been doing some writing for General Mills the past few months, and recently I pitched a story to the editor of BettyCrocker.com. When she accepted my idea and gave me an assignment, I was happy beyond all rationality. I was going to be writing for Betty herself. If I couldn’t get over to her house in St. Paul (And, let's face it, I could never find my way around there, anyway), I would at least be writing for her, which didn't even involve trying to figure out the GPS.
I wished the thing I always wish when something nice happens to me. I wanted to call my Mom and tell her all about it. I could almost hear her, wanting to celebrate with me, but also eager to cut the call short so she could call all her girlfriends: Hey, Thelma, Eileen, Mary -- She's writing for Betty! My own little girl, the one who used to insist on adding brewer's yeast and bran flakes to every sodden, leaden thing she baked! Finally, she has seen the light and will be worshiping, one egg and a half-cup of water at the ready, at the altar of Betty.
If there's a way to eat package-mix brownies in heaven, I hope my Mom is having a little celebratory treat right now. And here's a glass of milk raised to my gal Betty -- long may she reign.
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